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| Obligatory Awkward Couple Photo! |
We checked out of Yoshikawa and Kitsune found a place near Kiyama that would hold our bags. Ecbo Cloak is an app that he found that is basically Air BnB for your luggage. Super convenient and really wish we had something similar in the states. The place we found was a hair salon, and after walking inside, the owner greeted us. Using the app, she took pictures of each individual item, set the 3 hour time limit that we paid for, and then we were done!
After a little bit of searching, Kitsune was able to read the Kanji on a sign that let us know we found Kiyama. There was still a half hour until our reservation, so Kitsune started looking to see if a cafe or Starbucks was near us to sit down and wait. A lady stepped outside of the building, and asked us if we were there for the restaurant. Kitsune was able to understand her somewhat and communicate back that we were, and she unlocked the atrium door and let us sit inside until the restaurant opened.
(written by Kitsune!)
We were fortunate to be able to secure a booking at Kiyama but were unable to get a seat at the main counter. Despite being relegated to the "kids table" we still had an incredible dining experience that will serve as a cornerstone in our understanding of Kyoto Kaiseki!
We did not get a chance to see the main counter but the secondary counter was still beautifully crafted and the tasteful minimalist decor came across elegantly.
Due to my inability to read Japanese kanji and also limited experience with nihonshu we put ourselves in the hands of our sommelier and asked for a recommendation for a dry sake. She came through and provided us with a couple of excellent sips!
Unique start to the meal, a cup of boiled water (drawn from their well where Kiyama-san sources all his water). Essential to the incredible dashi they make.
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| Small sip of sake, not sure why this was given to everyone, couldn't understand the explanation unfortunately >.<' |
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| Sake glass - super delicate and extremely thin glass, very interesting to feel |
Excellent Miso soup - the miso we drank in Kyoto was nothing like any miso we have ever had before, each incarnation with it's own distinct characteristics and was quite refreshing and titillating to my palette having grown accustomed to a "standard" taste when it comes to miso soup.
The sashimi in this dish was incredibly tasty - the tuna in particular was extraordinary! By this point Hirame had become a frequent opening act for sashimi in our kaiseki meals but the three distinct seasonings (Third condiment is not visible in this photo) really made these bites unique and truly pop.
Incredibly comforting and tasty, the broth was outstanding. Kiyama is notable for creating an incredibly refined and complex dashi which shines in several of their dishes. The sweetness of the crab came through very nicely.
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| Rapeseed, Daikon, and I can't remember what is behind the daikon. gold-leaf for decoration |
I love vegetables so this dish was happiness all around.
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| Tempura Oyster and Butterbur (first oyster that Bear didn't find offensive! Actually kinda enjoyed it.) |
Second encounter with Tempura preparation of Japanese butterbur (explained to us as Japanese vegetable, no one seemed quite certain what the English translation of this was and my Japanese was too weak to catch the name at the time, only later at Godenya did we see this translated as butterbur). The bitterness is quite endearing - grows on you.
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| Grilled fish dish w/ burdock and peanuts. The sauce was green onion puree |
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| Simmered fish with greens |
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| First rice dish - Zosui (mild rice soup) |
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| Second rice dish - Egg and fish over rice |
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| Third rice dish - Tiny fish over rice |
This rice dish was amazing - I have to admit I tend to find the rice portion of Kaiseki I have had in the past somewhat bland but the seasoning of the preserved fish was spot on here. I wish I were not so full at this point that I could have indulged in the egg yolk they offered to mix in.
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| Fresh squeezed orange juice - very refreshing |
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| Fresh Ocha - whisked individually for each person. Surprising amount of effort to whisk it to froth. |
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| Dessert - Dango and Red Bean in light syrup. |
Kiyama-san made sure to personally see each of his guests off, thanking them for coming to eat his food. This was a great meal and I hope to come back again.
We headed back to the hair salon to pick up our luggage, and then hurried to catch a bus to head up to Arashiyama for our next leg of the journey.
